Spring 2011 Paul Stuart Phineas Cole Fashion

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A 12 months ago, my fellow columnist Stephen Pulvirent wrote a captivating piece about Phineas Cole, the fictional ‘errant son’ of the Paul Stuart brand; a jet-setting dandy with a penchant for plaid ties, unmatched pocket squares and loud (ish) suits.

A yr on and younger Phineas is still as delightfully affected and alternative. The new spring assortment (pictured above) is a formidable advancement of arguments for development mixing, color model and fending off dullness in suiting.

I lately indicated in an article, an abidance of my very own ‘pattern triangle’; patterning not more than two pieces within the ‘Holy Trinity’ – shirt, tie and pocket square. Cole dumps such fearful thinking in the wastebasket with aplomb. Stripes, checks, paisley – a spice mixture of implausible variety. The fresh factor about him is that he flies in the face of modern ‘fashionable caution’ – a development that has seen males restrict their wardrobes to standard army neckties, white linen pocket squares and mid-blue shirts. He is all that is skilled and personable about latest attire with the brought raffishness and creativity of a ‘green carnation’ dandy.

There is a nod to Edwardian formality in the white double-breasted waistcoat look which, as an ensemble, is decidedly out of place; as an alternative of the winking, knowing, Martini-olive-stick chewing nattishness of the others, younger Phineas is restrained, conservative and interestingly ceremonial – one assumes he's attending a serious, uptown matrimonial serve as and is being pressured to downplay the jazz. Apart from the peculiar few undeniable examples, the spring lookbook is a stripe and window-check frenzy, an orgy of pattern; you'll believe this type of man dashing into his tailor in January with a Dean & Deluca coffee, pushed to unattractive inflammation by the grim persistence of winter, difficult swatches of crimson plaids.

As an example of getting a laugh with serious clothing, there are few better. The seems are colorful, ingenious and artistic but nonetheless elegant, presentable and aesthetically logical. The only drawback is that such males are hardly ever taken seriously; Phineas could have a hard time convincing sourpuss project capitalists that he has a lead to rather than himself, a calling upper than simply ‘having fun.’ Cole is memorable, no doubt and utterly fascinating but universally liked? Respected in addition to loved? It’s tough to say.

To my eye, the look is still that of a well-dressed boulevardier, accountable for colors and reduce and wonderfully oblivious to the coughs of derision from elders and betters but to many, he's the personification of an overworked aesthetic fantasy.