Losing it

Since reading this post over on iCiNG I have been mulling over the topic of losing your hair. I was racking my brains all over Christmas for some good bald/balding icons, only to kick myself for my stupidity when I caught a bit of The King and I on TV. Yul Brynner is surely the most obvious choice?
And while he is probably best known for his completely bald look (above) as sported in the King and I, I think he looked quite dashing in his younger days when he still kept a bit on top.

The supreme neatness of the hair he does have is vital to the look. And this just set the ball rolling. There are so many balders (not yet baldies, you see?) out there to admire! The trick to it, as always, is excellent grooming.

This is perfectly illustrated here by Mr Astaire. While he does have his hair reasonably long it is slicked down and back at all times with no attempt to hide the arches of his hairline. His skin is clear and healthy looking and, as usual, he is clean shaven.

I've noticed quite a few indie boys trying to disguise a receding hairline by growing a long sweep of hair to use as a fringe. I hate to break it to you boys, but I'm beginning to feel that this the the modern equivilant of the comb-over... you're fooling no one my dears. I did consider finding a picture to illustrate this point but I thought that would be a little bit too mean. Maybe your new influence, if you don't like the swept back look should be Brandon Flowers?

His hair is short here and ever so slightly pushed forward. I'd be interested to see what he will do once it REALLY starts going though. I was also going to use Jude Law as a muse here but, if I'm honest, he creeps me out nowadays.

Falling for evening wear

When most men think of evening wear they think that the available options are limited...a black tuxedo, a starched white shirt, a bow tie/tie. During the teen years these are by in large rented from moss bros. However, as we get older I would suggest that it actually makes more sense to buy a tuxedo, rather than renting one out. If you choose the right one for you, both in terms of cut and style, it will be well worth the investment! I personally think most men in evening wear look a little bit uncomfortable in their ensemble so we all have to get more comfortable! It is always best to show off with ‘I’ve already been to three black tie parties before this one’ look, wandering into the room with relaxed swept back hair, looking slightly dishevelled but still perfect at the same time...If in doubt I recommend reading through a recent post on Men's Flair that runs through a number of options when it comes to evening wear. For inspiration look at Fred Astaire who wore them tails as if they were pajamas and a tuxedo as though it were a part of his everyday routine, rather than borrowed from some Prussian general or Moss bros!

Having only just recently stumbled across the wonder of menswear editorials on show at fashion156, I thought I would share my current favourites (I have no idea why I've not given this site the attention and devotion that it deserves!). I have been thinking about evening wear over the last few weeks (as it is party season after all) and have fallen head over heels with these images.

Suit with piping detail by Alexander McQueen @ Selfridges. Shirt by Burberry at Matches. Bow tie by J. Lindeberg at Harvey Nichols.

I absolutely adore the J Lindeberg metallic jacket below!

Shirt by Number Nine at Liberty. Metallic black blazer by J. Lindeberg at Harrods. Black velvet bow tie from a selection at Harrods. Black dinner suit trousers both by Gieves & Hawkes.

If like me you couldn't quite afford the delights on show above Topman's new range of suits is well worth looking at. I'm a little unsure about the waxed tuxedo jacket having liked it online but not in person (for me the finish was all wrong, and the stiffness of the cloth affected the shape of the jacket!) but there are plenty more on offer. Whatever your budget it is time to embrace the suit. Instead of the classic white shirt why not wear a black ruffle neck shirt. Instead of the skinny black tie, why not wear a beautiful bow tie, over sized and woolly if you are feeling adventurous. All this talk of evening wear just makes me want to watch Top Hat...

Despite my love of Fred and near daily singing of 'Top hat, white tie and tails' (seriously folks, I cannot recommend this album enough), I've never really been a fan of men in tuxes. James Bond just never really did it for me- something about a bow tie just turns me right off... however, I must say that chap in the Alexander McQueen suit does look extremely dashing. The detail on the shoulders is just interesting enough without being ridiculous and that shirt is just brilliant. I know I try to be an exponent of doing things on the cheap but I'm afraid that when it comes to black tie... well, who goes to balls dressed in Primark? HOWEVER, the one thing that can be taken from the look is the hair. The sort of slicked-back-but-with-volume look is definitely one to copy and reasonably easy to copy I'd imagine. We'll definitely have to add it to our list of hair styles to do a how-to on.

That Sartorialist is stealing our thoughts!

Hey EJ

Have you seen how that pesky sartorialist has been inside our brains or maybe he is just one step ahead! I let him off the first time when he mentioned Fred Astaire's use of the tie as belt (although I mentioned this in an earlier post) but now it seems he is delving into the inner depths of my inspiration. Is this just a coincidence? I think not. I will have to don my trench coat and fedora and snoop around his archives. Regardless of whether he has or not (I really don't think he has been reading this blog) I am extremely happy to see him bring up the great style icons that are Cary Grant and Fred Astaire and to see the that the level of response following this post far out number the comments left for other posts. If you missed it, although I very much doubt you have, here it is.

My own personal favourite of the two has to be Fred Astaire. He was not blessed with the natural aesthetic beauty of Grant but Astaire used his style to allow his aesthetics to bloom and even surpass Grant's. The little touches within his style that at first can go unnoticed but once seen excite and wow the viewer, such as the tie as belt (my personal favourite which I have salvaged for myself), the slanted tie clip and the slim cut sleeves on his suits. In contrast Grant was always sleek and well styled but not stylish to the extent of Astaire whose style was simply breathtaking on camera and off. I commend the sartorialist in bringing this style debate to the fore. I hope to continue the good work and will post in much more detail at a later date.

I say we approach the sartorialist for a collaboration of some kind, are you with me?

Oh Stevie, you know my adoration of Fred. Looking at pictures today has made me realise that I might have been channeling him a little, but it's probably best not to dwell too much on that. My most favourite thing of all about him is his apparent lack of conceit and his fantastic smile. In every photo I see (bar the ones where he is concentrating on a scene) he has that lovely, open smile. He never seems aloof or mean, particularly not in any films that spring to mind. His style is so casual that any surprises it brings seem even more wonderful- dandyism without the pose and knowingness. Other people may disagree with me on this one and hold a completely different view, but for me he's the tops.

Pocket Squares - more than just hankies

First things first, yes I am calling them pocket squares...this is an Americanism but this isn't because I love all things stars and stripes, this is because they mean more than your average old hanky. On many occasions a look that involves a jacket or even a shirt can be greatly enhanced by a pocket square. When I talk about pocket squares it isn't in the strict sense of folded cloth, one can be as imaginative and interesting with filling a breast pocket as possible in my opinion. That said any dark jacket with shirt underneath looks so much better with a complimenting fold of material.

This accessory is associated most with evening wear and, yes, without one the evening look isn't quite right but it has far more use than just complimenting evening attire. There are amazing styling perks with a pocket squares which most men do not realise; any mediocre or worn out jacket can be instantly livened up with an inexpensive, casually folded pocket handkerchief.

On one of my frequent explorations of the sartorialist I came across this interesting quiz question. The common opinion would be that it is a bit over-the-top to put a pocket square in your overcoat but if you actually saw this on the street you would barely notice it and therefore this is a perfectly subtle sartorial detail. Style is all about details and this is where the pocket square can shine. There is so much more than the basic fold, there are a number of ways to fold your chosen material! The grace with which Milan men manipulate the silk or linen is represent their character more than any other element in their outfit. Remember to make the accessory your own, experiment, re-invent something you have seen and try something completely new.


Now here are some images demonstrating just some of the ways you can wear this versatile accessory.

Gary Cooper

Fred Astaire

Bandanna as pocket square courtesy of the thesartorialist

Picture postcards

Dear Steve,

Check this one out! I don’t think we could ask for a better picture to cheer us up after this week of unrelenting rain. I absolutely love the expression on their faces and the fact that it looks like they’re about to high five. Love that crisp white shirt on Fred and the shiny shiny shoes. The sleeves rolled up to that length just above the elbow always adds a nice casual air I think. Is it bad that those super high waist bands are starting to grow on me? I think I may have been watching too many musicals lately. In Brigadoon Gene has the highest waistband I think I’ve seen him wear in any film yet still looks so dapper. How does he do it? King of dares you to try it out.

How has your search for a hat been going? We shall have to continue it when you come to visit.

EJ

Morning Eliza,

This has to be one of my favourite photographs of all time, just look at Gene's face! I like to think that we are mere moments from THE best high five ever performed and it seems by his smile Gene knows it. You just don't see men dress like this anymore. I particularly like Fred Astaire's look, Gene Kelly looks a bit like he's on safari. Plus this is a great shot of Astaire's trademark mixed accessorising, see the tie/neckerchief as a belt. Awesome! I am still on the look out for the perfect hat but as yet have not found it. The weather has made this search a little less important as in my head the hat I want is a summer hat. The same goes for the shorts I wanted to buy...it is getting to the point where I might as well just think about autumn/winter clothes.

Don’t get me started on white shirts as I adore them and are their biggest champion. I do have four now and find myself drawn to them whenever I shop. This will be the subject of the next blog and my not so secret love for them will be clear to all.

During a recent window shopping trip (I did end up buying things, so technically it wasn't just window shopping but that was my intention) I was very tempted by similar shiny shoes. They were black patent shoes but I was unsure if I could get away with them at work. I think I could though. What do you think?

Now, the super high waist bands are interesting. As I was telling you the other night, ‘Edi’ is no more at Dior and the new chap, Kris Van Assche, has created a very different silhouette to the skinny clothes of Edi with tailored tops and loose, high waisted trousers - http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2008MEN/review/CDMEN. I quite like it but I am not sure why and doubt i would feel comfortble wearing them. Maybe because it’s a nice change from the tight jeans.

I am now off to enjoy the weekend

Steve

Short attention span

(Otherwise known as 'things that have caught my eye lately and, well, it's only 3 months and one day until my birthday you know' )

1. Print Liberation t shirts

I've not really been a fan of logo or t shirts with clever writing on them of late, probably after overkill on my part in my youth. That said, I really like the ones over at Print Liberation. I see this t shirt in particular as perfect Sunday gear, proving especially useful when the Sunday evening blues set in. I would be very tempted to wear the 'My boss is an asshole' tee one dress down day and see what happens...

If you're not tempted by their words, you can even custom order one that says whatever you want. Style Salvage t shirt anyone?

2. Flud Turntable watch

I know it's a bit gimmicky, but I'm a sucker. I never really got my head around those watches that cost more than cars, and at $70, the price seems about right. Found here.

3. Bontanika hooded coat

I saw this over at Brandish (it's environmentally friendly, as is the whole brand if you're interested in that sort of thing). I mostly love it because it's almost the exact same pattern as a coat I had when I was about 8 or so... and 12 coats is never enough, is it? You can buy it here, if you can handle Japanese.

4. Not for purchasing, just for... oddness

I'm slightly entranced by this. Not sure if it's genius or blasphemy.

EDIT: I get the feeling I'm going to be listening to this on repeat in the next month.

Why can't my Easter be like...

"Why didn't you tell me I was in love with you?"

A scene from Easter Parade (1948) starring of course the one and only Fred Astaire and Judy Garland

Bring back the top hat for Easter I say...at the very least let's have a Parade...we don't have enough parades if you ask me...