Rant Alert: Menswear Designer of the Year

Can Carri Munden be one of the finalists for Menswear Designer of the Year? Can a brand that has been described as Cartoon Couture be taken seriously? I read this on FUK and I just hoped my eyes were playing tricks on me so I closed down computer went out to work and then came back only to read the very same thing! I've never really taken this designer seriously myself, gaudy colours and patterns; nothing else, this is a fad at best. A fashion that accompanied the rise of Nu-Rave (I can't believe I even wrote that because the music scene doesn't even exist...I even like a lot of it!). I can see how for some London natives who crave neon colors, cartoon imagery, and outlandish graphics whilst listening to dance and electro (which I do myself but see no reason in having to wear such things!) this is an attractive label but outside of this novelty world, no.

"Cassette Playa has a great approach to colour which I really respect and Carri's clothes really form and reflect that air of excitement flooding through London's young creative scene" - Nicola Formichetti (Executive Menswear Editor, Dazed & Confused and Another Man)....I concede that it could be seen (as Formichetti does) as refreshing in some way; an exciting, innovative approach to Menswear (which can be a tad on the safe side) but it's not for me and its not for most men. What do you think?

Regardless it should certainly not be considered for Designer of the Year accolades and sit alongside the likes of Bailey and McQueen. If you are not aware of the label just click onto the website and you will instantly see how annoying it all is! I just hope Bailey wins. Surely he HAS to and Cassette Playa can have the continued support of Sega stalwarts.

Vs

I was always more of a Nintendo kind of girl.

Playing by the rules

Most men's (and women's) magazines seem to like trotting out 'rules for the stylish man/woman' or some such nonsense at least once a year it seems. It's a strange idea when you think about it to assume that all 'stylish' people abide by one set of rules, and not really a myth I buy into. More often than not these lists vary from the vague to the oddly specific. Take this lot from Esquire.com: Tom Ford's Style Rules. The first one- 'be confident'- seems like fairly sensible advice but 'never button more than one button on a jacket'? What, never? Seems very odd to me and not something I would necessarily advise or entirely see the logic behind. Surely most jackets are designed to look their best properly buttoned up? Maybe it's a slimming thing.

On closer inspection it would seem that Esquire is hoarding a collection of style rules . It is probably best if I stop reading all of these, but if you are in any doubt of the stupidity of style rules, please consider the following:

"For all hairstyling products, a little dab will, indeed, do you. In the unlikely event that a little dab will not do you, get a different hairstyle."

Good advice, perhaps, for the men who do overuse, but for the quiffed man? Pah!

So what do we think about rules? Personally I'm inclined to think 'learn them, know them, then make up your own'. That way at least if someone says you look crap at least YOU know what you were aiming for. My own personal rules focus on flattery.

I think at the moment they would be:
make sure it fits,
choose colours that suit you
and remember that accessories make all the difference.

What do you think? What rules (if any) do you follow?

I try not to follow rules but I do know a vast number of them. I used to love reading the ask GQ style questions, it was the highlight of the magazine for me but it did put me off. It reminds me of American Psycho, when an outfit is thought about so much it is no longer style, it's more of a maths equation as opposed to something aesthetic. That said I do try and match my belt with my shoes and aim to match my bag with the rest of the look.

I am not a fan of Tom Ford and wouldn't take too much notice of man who applies the same rule of never buttoning up more than one suit button to that of his shirt buttons (a slight exaggeration but seriously Tom I don't want to see your chest hair!) Whilst I'm on the subject of your style Mr Ford, please take note that you can wear more than just white shirts (unbuttoned) with a suit jacket and jeans! OK, enough of this nonsense. I agree with Ford on his first rule of 'be confident', if you wear your clothes confidently most things will look good. I partially agree with one his other rules 'You can't wear trendy clothes forever. Everyone has to grow up.' It is sad fact of life that we all do get older, although in most cases men look better with age. I advocate that your style should develop with age but growing a few years older should not necessarily mean you can't wear certain things. Is their an age where it is no longer acceptable to wear jeans or trainers? I hope not anyway. I think there comes a time when you can't wear jeans and trainers as your staple uniform but this age should be quite young. Everyone should mix it up when they have the chance! On the flip side (did I just say flip-side? that's a first right there) of this point I don't think age is an excuse for bad clothes.


OK my rules are as follows:

Be confident

Ensure that the clothes fit as they are meat to

Be a style magpie but make your finds your own

Think about the coordination of colour

Where/use complimentary accessories

Mix old and new where possible

Never wear too much of one label/brand at a time

Before leaving the house look at yourself in the mirror for a few seconds at least

Experiment with your style. Try not to wear the same look over and over and over

Dear Topman

Dear Topman,

Why do you hate men?

Ok, maybe hate's a strong word. Why do you put so little faith in the fact that men want to dress well, that they're interested in more 'edgy' fashions? Let's compare what your sister shop, Topshop, provides for us women and what you offer up to men.

You have no less than TWO specialist ranges for women, Unique and Boutique, which seem to be available in most of your stores... or at least the bigger ones that I've been to.

Silk Pocket Dress by Boutique

You then have TWELVE other different designers who have created ranges for you, five of which specialise in just shoes. SHOES! Let's see what you offer the men...

Carolyn Massey Funnel Shirt

Four designers for your LENS range. It was five about a month ago, but Nueue seemed to disappear without a word. There are currently 19 pieces available altogether. NINETEEN! No shoes, no accessories.

Now don't get me wrong. The men that I know are grateful for this range... when they can get it. Yes, it's available online, but most people like to try stuff on first. And if you want to try on, you'd damn well better live in London. I'm sure you'll tell me that it is stocked in stores other than your Oxford Street flagship store, but if/when it is, it's a bugger to find. I have previously just stumbled across odd pieces from the range, tucked away among other clothes in random sizes with absolutely no signage whatsoever. What is the problem here? Don't tell me that it's floorspace as you devote half your shop to bloody jeans. Are you not proud of the range?

Sort it out Topman!

EJ

Oh not much gets you this riled up! Unfortunately, this isn't just the case with Topman we have seen it across the High Street and also online. Menswear is the poor cousin of womenswear...Unfortunately, women just spend more money on clothes, not only that but a greater percentage of women are interested in fashion and style...we are in the minority still despite the continued growth of the menswear market. Topman has taken many strong, definite strides forward in recent years but it will take some time for the store to reflect the changing attitudes towards menswear. I agree that they need to do more than they currently are though. I have been the victim (on a number of occasions) where I have seen an item within the Lens collaborations, only to see the item sold out in my size (small to medium)..the just don't stock enough and i am one of the few who have the items available in my local store (the flagship store)! I hope that within my lifetime, the floorspace is divided equally between menswear and womenswear...I'm having a Martin Luther King moment..."I have a dream..." What are our readers experiences, how do our readers from abroad fare in stores...?

The joy of lists

Daniel Craig was voted Best Dressed Man in Britain for the second year running by GQ magazine. The pic of Craig in his short shorts was for EJ's benefit...reports from other other people in the cinema showing of Casino Royale say she was actually salivating at this point in the film.

Eliza is passionate about lists, she writes lists for everything and through her passion I am a big fan of writing all kinds of lists. My favourite list is my 'Clothes of the Month' list which details any items that I need to complement my wardrobe. Of course there are times when I'm out shopping and the tempting shade of a shoe, or the cut of a shirt will catch my attention and make me forget the list, but I always have the list in the back of my mind and it helps me...list are great. However, when it comes to other peoples lists, I'm not so keen. I pick up GQ from time to time now, for me it has been surpassed by Esquire and Arena in the everymans (allbeit slightly wealthy and middle aged) market, it has become the male equivalent of everything that is wrong with Vogue, far too many adverts, lazy styling and leaning far too far to the right (I'm getting political this morning!) This little rant is after GQ has published their '50 Best Dressed Men in Britain in 2008', for a great run down of the list go here.

With regards to their number one, I have little to complain about, I've talked about Daniel Craig recently - Craig dresses in Savile Row, he is always sharp and crisp, not very adventurous but he knows how to wear clothes well. Noel Fielding (for anyone who doesn't know he is the chap above) at number 2? GQ isn't meant to be picking someone like Noel Fielding; he certainly is an interesting dresser (a man who's never been afraid to wear silver space shoes down the local cafe) but one of the best dressed men in Britain he is not. Apparently he got the female vote. Which is surprising to me because I thought they might be angry with him for stealing their jeans in Topshop.

Now onto James McAvoy, I like the Atonement actor a great deal but he should not be anywhere near the top 50 best dressed men solely because of the cover he did for W. I could go on and on in this fashion but I will try and keep this short...

4th best dressed man in Britain...I'm packing my bag and heading anywhere else...

The Royal Family also find themselves surprisingly well represented, with Princes Philip, Charles, Harry and Michael of Kent all making the list, which was voted for by a panel of international judges including Tom Ford, Giorgio Armani and Naomi Campbell. Conservative leader David Cameron made the top ten, while Gordon Brown fell (or climbed, depending on how you look at it) to third worst-dressed. Can the Conservativeness of this publication being any more subtle?

I will stick to writing my own lists and will be miffed by other peoples....so let's start our own list...recommendations welcome...this is a democratic blog after all.

Is it bad that I've not actually heard of a lot of people on their list? I can't understand how David Beckham can be one of the best dressed men in Britain largely because he doesn't really live here any more. It seems odd that at number one they have someone who dresses so classically, while at number two they have someone who dresses out of a manic 8 year old girl's dressing up box (sorry, in the past year for some reason I've grown to really dislike Noel Fielding).

It's funny though, as much as I love lists, I don't really have a list of stylish men in my head, just particular outfits, films, photographs and moods in a gigantic collage in my memory. I guess for me that's a large part of what this blog's about, trying to pin it all down. Still, I'd love to know who's our readers' number one, or if indeed they have anyone specifically in mind.

Is the Vanishing Point going unnoticed?

Just as I was leaving New York I had a few moments to kill as the gf was packing up (frantically cramming things into her suitcase and, when that was full, mine) and I read an article in the New York Times. The point of the article was that over the last few years the body shape of the male model has changed, the preferred frame aesthetic is now much leaner than before and whilst everyone worries about thin female models, the skinny man goes unnoticed.

The article refers to Slimanization - the dominance of the scrawny kid at castings.

It is certainly true that the sleekness of Dior Homme suits made other designs appear boxy and old. I actually took a class at Uni for my Law and Sociology degree titled Masculinities which explored, amongst other things, the Male Body and back then in 2003 a musucular and athletic form was preferred. It was interesting reading the view point of American who are used to seeing muscular male models championed by the likes of athletic menswear brands such as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. John Bartlett is interviewed and says "The eye has changed. Clothes are now tighter and tighter. Guys are younger and younger. Everyone is influenced by what Europe shows." It is true that designers like Raf Simons, Prada and Slimane champion the scrawny and younger guy so this leaves the big, powerful models of old even unable to squeeze themselves in sample sizes. Demian Tkack an Argentine model has the last words within the article "I understand the designers are not looking for a male image anymore. They're looking for some kind of androgyne."

The image used in the article, models Sascha Kooeinga (left) and Artem Emelianov (right).

Should we be ranting and raving about the state of male models in the way in which has recently taken place for Womenswear or is this the scrawny kid getting their own back on all those guys who used to kick sand in their face on the beach? Personally I feel that trends go round and around, this has just been the time where the thin guy takes the limelight as androgyne prevails. As tastes and fashions evolve,masculinity should not be measured by the size of a man's bicep but by a myriad of complimentary and contradictory facets. If people believe that the scrawny ideal is an unhealthy ideal as they champion the more butch body, then they forget how unhealthy the road can be to reach this ideals. A fact that has stayed with me ever since those uni lectures is that if the Wolverine (a member of the X Men) action figure was lifesize his biceps would measure 48 inches. Is a waist of twenty eight inches more or less unhealthy than a body (Wolverine's) of such celebrated (allbeit caricature like) of masculinity? In conclusion, as long as the man is 'healthy' there is no need for debate. Let the clothes speak for themselves.

I think this is a very complex issue that I find difficult to discuss briefly here. I will, however, say that while I agree that as long as the man is healthy, then it shouldn't be a big deal, when people are shown only one body type (whether pumped up or super-skinny) it can lead to feelings of inadequacy that can have very negative and strong impacts on men's lives. Whether this is fashion's responsibility or not is very much up for debate.