Discovering Juan Carlos Rodriguez Morante, one of the emerging talents of Spanish fashion
If you ask me by a fashion show of the latest edition of Cibeles, immediately comes to mind Morante. His staging (in Atocha 8), the impeccable aesthetic of their design and conception of men's fashion(as art, he calls it), surprised me greatly.
So, we were pending a conversation with the talent young of the Spanish fashion. His house and studio, an elegant and eclectic style bright room dominated by a white chimney (not throw) a marble in the neighborhood of Malasaña, was the place where we chatted a while as Juan Carlos (Morante, Juanqui ... depends who called) served as a jockey to acclimate our conversation (rang from 'What you know'Two Door Cinema Club to 'I have a weakness').
"Neither extreme edge, not classicism, I do what I want "he answered when asked which side of of the fashion we saw him, if we have the offenders or the traditional spirits.”I like the volumes of the 50's but brought to men. I do not dispute fashion. Seeking to combine of the making as the vanguard, a vanguard that is viewed much worked garments. "
His inspirations are Thierry Mugler and Cristobal Balenciaga, two geniuses who somehow were present at his show in February (one by the strange yet elegant wrought iron and another of the elegance of of the seam to fit). His training began, after finishing Dance, at the Polytechnic University to switch to FDI. Among his teachers have of the great Anne Valérie Hash (a job made for her during her years at the European Institute of Design) and the Nihil Obstat, in whose studio was formed a few months (they have very good memories of him a couple of Spanish Designers).
The movie also appears among the influences of the designer. On his shelf are stacked a large number of DVD. Are your favorite movies? "'All About Eve', 'High Heels', 'White Eye Shut', 'The Leopard'-why not-and 'Showgirls'. " If we inquire about his inspiration said: "Lorca, Fellini ... or come across someone on the street. Beauty inspires. "
On the runway include your buttons xxl (house brand) and careful color palette: "I really like the color, especially the navy. It's something that has been lost in menswear. In the eighteenth century saw men dressed in heels, linings, socks, bright red.... "In some ways it shows his last dance. Kandinsky said that was one of the most perfect art and Matisse is immortalized in one of his works. Interestingly, thetones used Morante remember these geniuses.
Reach Cibeles not been easy: "It took a start. Sponsor had to find a space, talk to the organization ... We have the support of Carlsberg and The Water Company and thanks to them I got the thing out very well, "he says. But it was the path to be followed. Before appearing onthe calendar Sable, Morante ModaFad passed in Barcelona, wherehe received the award for Best Collection for 'Emotional Addiction'(chosen by Franca Sozzani, Italian Vogue, as finalist of My Own Show), and Gateway Murcia Open.
So it was time to get to Madrid. And the truth is that people are left wanting more. So if it is true that their proposals are beyond the seasons, we are eager to see what new Morante. "The other day on the street came to my mind a coat, but now I'm focused on the business plan.” We are therefore waiting to see that coat that could well wear the artist Wolfgang Tillsman (one of the men who would like to see taking some of her clothes).
MORANTE from Domingo Fernández on Vimeo videos.
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